
At the end of a nine-hour workday, David Simmons sprinkled a cloud of lemon-pepper over a pile of chicken wings, stepped up to his cash register and shook his head. He had cooked three batches of wings for two customers, bringing in just $23.97 – a fraction of the $300 he typically made each day at his small soul food joint. “I don’t think it’s worth staying open.”
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