On a riverbank in Syria’s Hama, Mohammed Sultan tinkers away on a giant water wheel, one of a dwindling number of artisans able to restore the city’s ancient wooden landmarks. Used for centuries to bring water to gardens and buildings on the shores of the Orontes River, the water wheels or “norias” of Hama are believed to be unique worldwide, according to UNESCO. The touristic landmarks have largely been spared by Syria’s nine-year war, but some…
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