In Sweden, a chef tries to rehabilitate a divisive delicacy

As chef Malin Soderstrom opened the can, the trapped air escaped with a hiss and filled the balcony of her waterside restaurant with the pungent odour of Sweden’s infamous delicacy, surstromming. Likened to the smell of rotten eggs, surstromming — fermented herring — has gained a following online where daring gastronomes film themselves trying the seafood, which should be opened outdoors because of the stench, and preferably underwater in a bucket.