Squabbling over a treat of apples in autumnal sunshine, Mark Chilcott’s feisty turkeys look pretty hefty. In fact, they’re a smaller breed destined for downsized family dinners this Covid Christmas. Chilcott, a 58-year-old organic farmer, prizes quality over quantity at his mixed farm of 440 acres (180 hectares) in Dorset, southwest England. In the spring, as the coronavirus pandemic took hold, he anticipated no let-up to government curbs on how…
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